Identity for Sale: Gen Z’s Obsession with Pre-Packaged Aesthetics

It is human nature to label things. Labels give us a sense of understanding about certain topics and allow us to organize multiple ideas under one neat umbrella. Creating and organizing  fashion genres and lifestyles is nothing new, as seen in the traditional print magazines of the pre-digital age. However, the emergence of modern internet aesthetics has changed how we view personal style and trends. These aesthetics — and their virtual communities — have become increasingly more mainstream in the past decade with the rise of social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok. But what is an aesthetic, and how is it any different from a fashion trend?

Internet aesthetics originated in the 1990s, but exploded in popularity over the last 15 years, thanks to sites like Tumblr and Pinterest. Aesthetics encompass a wide variety of topics, from art to history, but their circulation on the internet has specifically given rise to “subcultures” of style. These subcultures not only showcase clothing or makeup, but also entire lifestyles. 

Take, for example, the “that girl” aesthetic, which depicts a girl who not only dons matching workout sets but also wakes up at 5 a.m. for her morning pilates and 10-step skincare routine. The constant circulation of this idealistic content led to the formation of communities around specific aesthetics, which only serve to further increase the subculture’s exposure. Despite this, the continuous cycling of information on social media, coupled with the ease with which existing aesthetics can be modified, has caused subcultures (and their communities) to face increasingly shorter shelf lives.

Fashion wasn’t always unpredictable. When retailers relied on traditional print magazines to advertise their products, fashion cycles could last anywhere from five to 10 years. This was in part because consumers were forced to visit physical stores with delayed restocking, which is in stark contrast to the 24/7 accessibility of fast fashion that we have today. This is why, alongside hyper-sensitive internet algorithms, current trend cycles typically only make it a few months before being shelved to make room for the next big thing.

As a result of these dizzying trend cycles, Gen Z is experiencing an identity crisis. The constant need to perform by fitting into the newest aesthetic box has prevented many young people from developing their own sense of self. Of course, young people have always conformed to trends in an effort to find belonging, but prior to the online shopping boom of the 1990s, these trends amounted to single clothing items rather than full-fledged aesthetics with corresponding lifestyles. Thus, rather than finding personal style organically, teenagers and young adults have instead flocked to Pinterest moodboards and aesthetic starter packs that tell them how they should dress. This is why, in an increasingly AI-driven landscape unable to comprehend the slightest bit of nuance, you are instructed to exist as one pre-packaged and pre-determined aesthetic. Are you a coquette, a downtown girl, or an office siren? Choose! (And don’t worry about commitment because you’ll need to adapt to the next trend in a few weeks anyway ... )

Additionally, because participation in aesthetics occurs in virtual spaces that prioritize visual presentation, many feel the consumerist need to “perform” to the aesthetic’s exact guidelines to fit in. To be able to say that you are truly a part of a certain aesthetic, you are forced to buy products (often entire hauls) to authentically “achieve” that particular style. These purchases are often marketed under the guise of “self-care,” but don’t be fooled — the attractive packaging and name brand associated with the product is far more important to the aesthetic than its actual effect on your well-being. After all, if you don’t have an Instagrammable açai bowl and a $30 gratitude journal, are you really “that girl”? 

Internet aesthetics rely on overconsumption, which has harmful ripple effects. The attractive prices and unparalleled accessibility of fast fashion retailers make it easy for young people to purchase new items. These small impulse purchases offer quick dopamine hits that addict the consumer, causing unhealthy shopping habits that eventually lead to economic insecurity. Moreover, fast fashion is notoriously bad for the environment. Aside from inhumane working conditions, the cheap manufacturing that factors into the cheap price tags means that the majority of pieces aren’t built to last after multiple wears and washes. This, coupled with the volatile nature of trend cycles, means that most fast fashion purchases end up in landfills within just a few months.

So, how can you avoid engaging with the problematic aspects of aesthetics? My advice: note the things you like and leave the rest. Take the time to do a broad search of different subcultures, and instead of forcing yourself to conform to one specific category, take note of the individual elements that resonate with you. Then, begin incorporating those aspects into your daily routine. As bad as the internet is for promoting overconsumption, it makes ideas, products, and information more accessible. You can use this capability to your advantage by understanding what you want to get out of what you wear. Think of aesthetics as a helpful tool, not an end-all-be-all when it comes to personal style.

When figuring out what you like, it is also important to shop sustainably and strategically. Opt to invest in a couple of intentional, high-quality pieces you love instead of a cart full of cheap items that will inevitably be thrown out in a few months. Rather than dropping hundreds of dollars on trendy pieces that will go out of style in the next trend cycle or two, focus on building a closet of basics that you can work with no matter your mood. These tactics improve not only the health of the environment, but also your wallet.

It can be easy to get caught up in the Shein hauls, Pinterest boards, and picture-perfect morning routines that flood your feed, but at the end of the day, it is important to remember that you should focus on presenting yourself according to your desires — not your algorithm’s.